The Process

Ok, you've decided you want to make some Giclee prints, what is the process?

The process is fairly simple. I will first make a digital photograph of your painting at my studio. Then I make a small sample print or "proof" for your approval. Then I'll make final Giclee prints on Artist paper or Canvas.

Click here for "Photography and Proofing" prices

Click here for Prices for Prints on Artist Papers"

Click here for "Canvas Printing Prices"

Sounds pretty simple right? It is. And here's a more detailed account of the process.

1. Decide exactly what want, Many people who are starting out will bring me small paintings to test the process to see if they like the results. I typically make reproductions of these works that are the size as the original (or smaller). Larger paintings can be reproduced to size as well, but you may want to order smaller prints in the beginning. If you do, just remember to to order a file under the "Photography and Proofing" section that will be big enough to handle the largest print you will definitely want to make in the future. If you order a file that is too small, you'll need to have your work shot again to make large prints.

If any of this is unclear, please give me a call on my toll-free number and I'll answer any questions you may have. My toll-free number is 877-474-6278. Ask for Steve. If I'm not available, I will return your call. If I'm out of the office, my calls are forwarded to my cell phone.

2. Call the studio and make an appointment. I'll need your paintings or other artwork for approximately two weeks to complete the whole process. You'll need to come back after the first week to review the proof and then at the end of the second week to pick up your prints.

3. Prepare your work. If your paintings are framed, please remove them from the frames if that is easy to do. If you can't, I will be able to reproduce your work but a I may need to crop your reproductions slightly due to shadows cast by the frame. If your work is under glass, remove the glass - yes, I can shoot through glass and eliminate reflections with various techniques, but the quality of your final images will almost always be compromised. So remove frames and glass before bringing your work in.

4. Bring your work to the studio. Direction to my studio are under the Directions/Contact section of this site. Please download my directions and print them out - don't Google me and use those directions! I've tested my directions and you won't get lost! Those clients who use Google directions often get lost!

I am located on the second floor of a two-story brick building that has a freight elevator. Please call when you arrive and I'll come down and help you unload your work and either carry it upstairs or load it into the freight elevator.

5. Leave your painting(s) for a week so I can photograph them and make the proof(s). After I create a large digital image of your painting I make a series of test prints over the course of a week that are evaluated for color accuracy, contrast, saturation, brightness, sharpness and other factors and compared to your original. I find that it takes a few days to really "see" how well my reproductions compare to your original since there are so many factors to consider. The biggest problem encountered are pigments in paintings that respond differently than expected to light, resulting in colors that need to be manually corrected. This is a problem with every digital camera or capture technique in existence and it takes time and patience to make the corrections so the file will make prints that are as accurate as possible. It also takes a powerful computer, complex software and an expertise in digital image manipulation.

6. Client Evaluation of Proof: When I've gotten a proof I'm happy with, I'll ask you to come in to evaluation this proof, to make sure you are completely happy with it before I start making prints. Since you painted the original painting and know it better than anyone else in the world, your input and observations are very important and if anything at all is not quite right, whatever that may be, you'll have a chance to put in your two cents at this point. Generally any corrections spotted by the artist will be very subtle and can be made right on the spot with the artist present. This does take time however and you should be prepared to spend that time with me if necessary when you come in for your proof. The neat thing is that you're given a chance to become intimately involved in the process and get to work with me while I make the corrections. I don't send you away and tell you to come back later for another proof, we make adjustments together till you're perfectly happy with the results. The final proof created by this process is signed and dated by the artist and remains at the studio. All prints generated in the future are made with exactly the same paper and settings as this proof.

7, Paper/Canvas Choices and Printing: Paper or canvas choices are made prior to printing. I have a selection of papers or canvas that you can choose from when you're at the studio. Printing takes a week. It takes twenty-four hours for the prints to dry and then they need to be finished. I use an invisible, archival, UV spray finish for prints and an archival, roll-on finish for canvas prints. Canvas prints are typically stretched at the studio and I use a gallery wrap whenever possible so that the staples are on the back of the frame, not along the edges.

8. Print Pickup. I'll call you or e-mail and let you know when your prints are ready. I make a folio out of foam core that will protect your prints on their journey home or to the frame shop.